Step One in Photography, shoot what you like – where your experience is. If you are more familiar with the surroundings, with the flow of things, chances are your photography will more naturally yield a stronger image.
Why am I talking about this now – when we are probably closer to step #78? Probably because I saw an article that is worthy and it ties in with step #1 – because shooting what you like is always applicable.
When I first began doing photography as a career, I was my own boss. So, I had some dual responsibilities — my boss (I) said, “We have some obligations of budget to consider, so, first order of business is to generate income (get published).” With that in mind, I had to do the things necessary to get results. Producing something publishable is the first step and working in familiar areas is the fastest way there. Both Carol & I had been sailing for a number of years and been racing our sailboat for the previous two years. So, I chose to photograph sailboat races. And that resulted in my first published work, three months after I bought my first serious camera. Learning about taking pictures – that’s an ongoing process, and still continues today.
So, why now? – we’ll I just purchased my first serious Lens after 20 years and now I’m itching to do more serious work again – and I have a strong background in sports, so that’s where I want to be. Taking sports pictures, requires understanding about where to be at events and how to get permission to be there. So, while researching some areas, I came upon this article.
Open Wide! Set your lens to maximum aperture to highlight action
Set your lens to maximum aperture to highlight action
By Jack Howard
October 17, 2005
The same set of skills and techniques will help you nail ‘the sports page’ look: moving bodies frozen in mid-action with good background separation. With the following advice and a little practice, it won’t be long before you’re nailing shots of little Jimmy delivering a knuckleball.
Or capturing great backyard birds.
Or making the sidewalk tricycle race look epic.
I shoot all of these subjects the same way: with a wide-open telephoto lens with continuous autofocus in multiple shot, or “burst,” mode. I prefer back-button focus (see below). My lens is either the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L (sometimes with a Kenko 1.5X tele- or the Canon 400mm f/5.6L on my Canon digital and film SLRs, such as the Canon 20D and the Canon EOS 3.
With the lens set to maximum aperture either via metered manual or Aperture Priority mode, set it to the widest aperture. If you choose Aperture Priority and let the camera decide on your shutter speed, be sure to select an ISO that will yield you a shutter speed of at least 1/800 second. The faster the better.
The larger the maximum aperture, the more background separation you will achieve at a given focal length and focal distance. A 400mm f/5.6 lens at maximum aperture will have a greater depth of field and less background separation than a 400mm f/2.8 at maximum aperture. It is my general thinking that faster is better. However, faster is costs more, sometimes in the range of several thousand dollars for a supertelephoto, so find your comfort level of price versus performance. Read More…
- Getting off Auto – Manual, Aperture and Shutter Priority modes explained (digital-photography-school.com)